‘State of the Industry’ Interview with Osman
Insights from Vicegerent Founder, Osman Aslam
It’s hard to understate the importance of a good impression. We’ve all stood in front of the mirror trying to put together that perfect look before an interview, date night, or special event. Our appearance is a powerful tool of self-expression, and everyone’s felt the confidence boost that comes with wearing your favorite outfit.
At Vicegerent, we want to share our knowledge and help grow a passion for fashion in anyone dressing for the occasion. What trends are currently ‘in’, which ones are fading, and most importantly, which will never go out of style? What’s going on behind the clothing industry scenes that you might not necessarily be aware of? And what lessons can small business owners in this space take away?
Vicegerent Founder and Custom Clothier, Osman Aslam, is here to address these questions and more.
QUESTION: You’ve been in the bespoke menswear business for over a decade now. Have you noticed any significant developments in that time? What should be on the radar of style enthusiasts?”
OSMAN ASLAM: “Over the years, two main changes come to mind—one involves the technicalities of tailoring, the other preferences of customers.
In regards to technique, just ten years ago the rope shoulder look was still a defining characteristic in jackets. We’ve since seen a continued relaxing in the professional dress code and a major softening in shoulder construction. This technique is now almost expected of any modern fine tailoring and, in my opinion, should last as a desirable aesthetic. The skinny jacket lapel currently pushed by fast fashion giants is, on the contrary, one newer trend that I don’t expect to have longevity; we steer Vicegerent clients toward a fuller lapel to create the illusion of a more tapered fit on the stomach while maintaining a broader look in the shoulder.
In regards to preferences, we’re increasingly looking to athletes, actors, and social media for style inspiration. Many of these figures rep classic, dressed-up menswear and take it in exciting new directions. Others create cool looks by dressing-down a blazer with sneakers and a t-shirt. To me, this indicates a culture that’s more accepting and even encouraging of self-expression via the wardrobe. The best clothiers are knowledgeable to advise on timeless style principles, but also flexible enough to accommodate modern preferences.
Q: What are some of the latest innovations in the bespoke clothing world? Have you seen improvements in technology, fabric, or design?
OA: Definitely. On a fabric level, the latest rage is blending various different materials. We can now create fabrics that are composed of a mix of linen, silk, and wool, which yield a final product with the best characteristics of each—breathability, softness, and durability. The benefit of going bespoke is that you have access to a huge range of fabric, which can really make the perfect three-season garment for your location and environment. At Vicegerent, a deep passion for fabric is our pride and joy. I’ve worked hard to source a huge selection of unique textiles from obscure regions of the world. The rise of athleisure has also inspired cool design changes in menswear. We’re seeing a big demand for business garments that stretch and incorporate moisture-wicking fabrics. Looking forward, I anticipate growth in ‘smart clothes’, like an inner jacket pocket that can charge your phone. With consumers becoming more eco-conscious, I also expect greater demand for natural, biodegradable fabrics.
Q: “We’ve only recently exited the lockdown phase of COVID—would you say that period of isolation altered how people approach the way they dress?”
OA: “Certainly. Today’s zeitgeist seems to be buying fewer clothes that are collectively more unique. When the pandemic first hit, many people traveled home to isolate with family, or at least sought frequent contact with loved ones. Our clients tell us that they emerged from this with a greater appreciation for their heritage—it is a comforting part of our identity, after all!
People came into our studio emboldened to use clothes to display their true authentic selves and, in a lot cases, pay homage to cultural roots. This took many forms throughout the design process. Some clients wanted to work with fabrics sourced from their country of origin; others sought unique liners to showcase their interests; a person who’s going to a few weddings and wants to do something special would incorporate jacquards, paisleys, and bolder colors into the design.
Q: “The design process you’re describing sounds highly collaborative—much more of a personal experience than just buying off the rack. How important have you found the human relationship side of the business to be?”
OA: “This is a person-centered craft. I sometimes joke that we’re in the touchy-feely business; the customer needs to touch the fabrics and we need to get a feel of the human being. The better we know you, the more we know you, the better design we can create for you. We gather intimate personal details from the moment we begin a consultation with a client, what they like/dislike, the way they think, their personal goals and ambitions—all of which allows us to better cater to their wants and needs during the design process.
Think of the first time you worked with an amazing barber or an honest mechanic. These are relationships that can last the course of a lifetime. In the bespoke industry, we want to ensure customers feel that they have a trusted advisor and style consultant. We’re in the sense-making business—when we guide clients through fabrics and tailoring techniques for their unique project, they join us on a journey of discovery. Our goal is for them to leave with an understanding of quality at a deep level; that’s what true luxury is.”
Vicegerent designs clothing that gives the viewer an irresistible urge to know more about the individual behind the wardrobe. We work with clients both in-person and virtually, so feel free to book an obligation-free consultation to learn more about our process.